I have not posted in a couple of days and that is due to a number of facts: A. wifi connections have been iffy. B. Tired at end of day. C. Not much to say – just walking and meeting many nice new folks. I have met some really interesting people in the last few days, young and old, from all over the world. Shared a meal and bottle of local wine with a 60ish year old man from Slovenia a couple nights ago and learned all about there resent history. It is amazing hoe faith, family and a strong community can get you through most anything – with a joy-filled spirit intact. After I heard about the trouble of the past all he talked about was the blessing of the present and future.
The Camino is traditionaly divided into three segment. As of yestarday I have completed the 1st and before I begin the 2nd or the Masada, I am taking a day off from walking and staying an extra night in the very busy and interesting city of Burgos. Burgos is full of pilgrims doing the same, all limping around enjoying not having a heavy pack on and the sites of this city that combines the modern, the old and the ancient together in that very typically Spanish way.
The two most notable things to see in Burgos is The Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the Museum of Human Evaluation. Both fascination and worthy of my staying in town to visit.
My blisters are well under control but I have been having some significant pain in my right foot and it has been making going down hill very painful for the last few days. I thought I knew what was going on but had it looked at to confirm – I was right, I had broken the small toe on my right foot. Painful but not exactly life threatening. Ice and tape and tomorrow I will be good to go.
The Masada is a huge highland plateau representing some 40% of Spains land mass and known/feared/loved by centuries of pilgrims for its featureless landscape, hot sun, many colors and beautiful skis. This is the land that inspired “Don Quixote – The Man of La Mancha.” It is said to be a land that can both bore and inspire – I’ll let you know in a few day. Nice thing is the it is relatively flat which will help with the healing of my foot.
Here are some pics from the last few days:
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Simple Blessings & Thanksgivings
Today was the first “boring” day of walking (not a bad thing). If the last couple of days have been about vineyards, today was about wheat fields. It was like walking through the mid-west but with hills. The sky was grey and I walked the whole day by myself. The solitude and lack of scenery gave me time to think and reflect some..
As those of you know who read yesterday’s post know, I was not in the best of places yesterday (not the physical place – the town was great) the physical and emotional place. My feet really hurt, I was tired, frustrated and I spent a good deal of time limping around town going from one door to the next looking for a place to stay but everywhere was pre-booked, which is unusual up to this point on the camino. The only place with a room was a rather expensive hotel, well outside of the budget I had set for myself. I such a busy city, with so many people, I was feeling pretty lonely. Quite frankly I was depressed and feeling sorry for myself, something I hate.
Priscilla and I have been communicating by wifi texting, which is free, versus calling, which is expensive. But now I pulled out my cell phone and called her. I did not get through and left her a message saying that there was no problem just wanted to say hi. I sat down on a bench and tried to figure out what to do next. Some folks had taken a bus a few days ahead to get some rest, but I did not want to do that unless absolutely the only option – Looking back I must have looked pretty pitiful.
Then the best thing that could have possibly happened – happened – my cell rang and it was Priscilla calling back. I spelled out my dilemma and she told me to check into the hotel, have a nice meal, put my feet up and get some sleep. As usual, I did what I was told.
Priscilla and I have been married for over 26 year and together for something like 34 years and it never ceases to amaze me how much I love her. Relationships are hard. Living with another person can at times feel like a lot of work. Now, while I am probably the easiest person to live with, I can’t say that about everyone. But I can say without a moments hesitation that my life is better because of the people who love me and who I love and I am a better man because of the woman I was lucky and smart enough to marry those many years ago.
And for that I thank God everyday – and if I don’t, I should
A Very Different Day
Today was a very different day from the last few. While I woke up around 5:30 and started walking before 6 as usual, today I walked alone. It was a short day of only 14 miles, my feet are not doing well. Everything from the ankles on up is doing great – far better than expected. Today I had scheduled a short day because I wanted to visit the Cathedral of Santa Domingo (St. Dominick) and visit his tomb.
and the chickens living in the Cathedral (google it, it is worth it)

While I did spend quite a bit of time in the Cathedral, I have also checked into a hotel to care for my feet and my ego. Humility is a hard learned lesson and today the Camino and my feet were my teachers. My frustration with my fragility has passed and I am enjoying both the rest and this beautiful city.
Please pray for my journey and know that you are in my prayers.
Oh look, another vineyard
Yesterday (May Day), was a long walk on a beautiful day. Started the day in the dark and thought that I was the first out of town after a good nights sleep. That was until I came upon Ivano, a friend I have been walking and visiting with for a couple of days now. Ivano is from Milan and a recently retired officer in the Italian military’s Mountaineering corp. He is a very sweet man who is very excited about the birth of his 1st grandchild in October. Ivano kept me busy for a couple of hours working on his English. He has tried to help me with my Italian, but you only imagine how that is going, non va bene. After awhile we spread out, which is the way of most days. Pilgrims spread across the width of Spain, not just for 800km but for centuries.

Oh look, another vineyard – as the miles past so did the vineyards – for this is La Rioja, one of the finest wine regions in the world (take my word for it, the wine is good and cheap – a bottle included with most pilgrims meals (no cost)). Even though there is no fruit on the vines until the fall the air still smells of grapes – it is lovely. One vineyard after another as the path rolled on.
By 2:30 I was walking into Najera, just over 40km (right under 30 miles) from where I had begun my day. I was not the only person traveling the Camino that date day who did not realize that it was May Day, a national holiday and the day of a big Renaissance fair in town, fun, but also meant that not a bed in town was available except at the municipal albergue (never my 1st choose or 2nd for that matter – a couple of euros can get you much better lodging). So I spent the night in one room with four toilets and 89 of my closest friends, most of whom I will never know but I have heard snore, caught and fart in their sleep (did I mention snore – free wine and all). That said I was so tired I got a good nights sleep.
Tough Day
After a full week on the Camino de Santiago I had my hardest day yet today, both physically and mentally.
We started as usual, up at 6 out by 6:15-30. Three of of us started out strong. The two young women I was walking with today are both very fast (fastest I have met yet) walkers. Heather is a resent grad from law school in Perth, Australia taking time off before her job starts (she also did the Inca trail before coming to Spain – what can I say the kid likes to walk) and the other, Katie, is from East London and is a parametric moving to the US to begin a job on a cruise ship out of California. Before we knew it we had lost the trail. That’s the problem with starting in the dark (although I have most days), first out and knowing it is a long day ahead. After figuring out what we had done and getting back on track we had “only” lost about 30mins. They were a little frustrated, I thought is was a little funny (“So what did you do for your sabbatical?” “Oh, I got lost walking in Spain”).
The day was the first really hot one and a constant up and down. While my legs and rest of my body feel great and are serving me well – my feet have decided to object to the walking with three large blisters. I had to stop a couple of times to deal with my foot issues and as you can imagine, I don’t like to stop other than to take pictures – but, quite frankly they hurt.
This was our second 30+ Km (~20 miles) day in a row, my feet hurt, it was hot……… But we made it into Viana (Spain, we didn’t get that lost) around 2:30. By 4:45 I was not feeling very good and realized I had not eaten all day other than some trail mix, water and some very strong coffee.
I ate and felt better. At the time I thought it might be the best meal I have ever had, but in retrospect and the clarity of being able to think straight again, I can say with out a doubt it is the best meal I have had since I have been in Spain – beautifully executed green beans and local ham and roasted chicken with perfectly fried potatoes and caramelized onions.
A long hard day, spent in good and interesting company and ending with a great meal – I am not complaining. Now just to deal with these damn blisters.
a long days walk
The Cathedral after dark – Pamplona
Three of us had visited The Cathedral of Santa Maria el Real in the center of the old city earlier in the day and had found it closed, disappointed we left.
On our way back after dinner, a few hours later, we thought we might try the Cathedral again, visiting hours were well over but we saw a few people coming out and found that there had been a private service that had just ended. No be deterred by something like a sign we went in. We had a chance to wander around for about 10 minutes before we found ourselves in danger of being locked in. While this might have been interesting we felt the prudent thing to do was to leave. Just before I left I wanted one more picture. As I was about to take the shot the lights went out and this is what I got – my flash was the only visible light in grand the space.
Special Tapas Addition – Pamplona
4/28/14 The road to Pamplona
Nice easy day, 13 miles in the sunlight – yes, no rain. This was the first time the trail has us walking through a city (two in fact). Evidently it takes very little time to forget how busy and loud some places can be. No matter, it was a fun, relaxing and interesting walk. While some of it was in an urban setting most of it was in the country side. We did need to deal with some slippery, muddy hillsides, but no problem.
I continue to feel good, but tiered at the end of the day. Life living out of a pack is getting more predictable. I think I know where I like everything and the rhythm of the day has become pretty set. Wake up at 5:45, check the weather, get dressed, repack from the night before and start walking. I tend to eat a snack of nuts or something on the way and walk straight for 4-6. After I arrive at my destination it is best to find a place to stay, I have not had a problem so far as I am usually one of the first into town. Then it is time to shower and wash clothes, get some lunch and then explore. Hang out till dinner, a group have been eating together since night 1, eat around 7 or 8 (early by Spanish standards . The day ends early around 9 or 10. Then repeat.
Pamplona is an interesting city with a very beautiful and historic center (think Hemingway and the running of the bulls). Next to Barcelona, Pamplona is one of the best places in Spain for Tapas.
Here are some pictures from the day.
4/26/14 – Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Today it only drizzled a little which was a nice brake and a real blessing (one among many). It was also the first day of the journey that was in and out of villages and without any really long climbs. There was some steep stuff but nothing to long. We walked 14 miles through villages, forest, farms and even down a highway for a short time, mostly through forests and farms. Although the distance was more than the past days it was easier walking, leaveing time to think, pray and visit with others on “The Way”. Again the countryside was beautiful and a true feast for the eyes. Having this time to be with self and God undistracted by nothing other then the sound of my on breath, a horse/cow bell in the distance or just around the next corner, or a bike passing you by – is a wonderful gift and a real rear pleasure.
I have also come to realize what a civilized country this – they have beer in the vending machines, cold and cheap.
Here are some pictures from the day





























































